As I write this, I’m sitting in my room listening to some Death Cab. And it’s making me reflect on my time here in Khorog. And think about the level of contentment I have felt over the course of the past few weeks. And the amazing feeling I have felt knowing that I am part of such a strong, close-knit culture.

I have 2 more days here. I’m going to miss this place.

I’m going to miss the people: the people I work with, the people I interact with frequently, the people I live with, and even the random kids here saying “Hello!” to you, even though you’re a complete stranger. I’m going to miss the culture here: from the constant kindness to the devotion of the people to the honesty and trust mixed with the lack of (some) inhibitions. I’m going to miss waking up to the majestic beauty of mountains surrounding me on all four sides. I’m even going to miss some of the God-awful problems with this city, such as the random power outages and inconsistent business hours.

I’m going to miss belonging to a predominantly Ismaili city. Having grown up in the West, it is certainly a foreign experience. Nonetheless, I feel that there is an undeniable kinship formed between the people here due at least in part to a shared religion. It’s going to suck not being able to walk around and here a random song about the Aga Khan, or people sing his praise on account of the substantial aid and guidance he has provided GBAO over the 1.5 decades.

I’m REALLY going to miss my host family. I have never really been one to get too attached to people. And while I still don’t feel like I have grown too attached, I am certainly very fond of all of them. Granted, the family seems to be in a constant state of flux, but each member of this family has been very welcoming and endearing in his or her own way. There’s Khala Chaizon, who is perhaps one of the kindest and certainly has one of the biggest hearts of anyone I know. There’s Nuzanin, who impresses me not only by her approachability but also by the steadfastness in her perspective and adoration for her siblings. There’s Gulya, who is perhaps one of the kindest, most approachable and honest people I have ever met. Then there’s Anzurat, who not only has an amazing personality and is incredibly maternal for an 11 year old, but also has modelesque features. She’s going to grow up to be an absolutely amazing person. There’s Tabasome, who is definitely the odd and random one of the group, but definitely the most spontaneous and energetic person in the family …AND she rules at video games! (Crazy discovery, I know.) There’s Maxim, Fitraat, and the Khola Sofiya, who have all either been great sources of entertainment (“Cheez toh dacco, pamidor?” and the sharobi) or great persons with whom to converse. More recently, there’s Moluda, who astounds me with her kindness at her age and certainly captivates people with her amazing smile. And finally, last but not least, there’s the baby of the family, Ahmadsho. By far, one of the biggest spoiled brats I have ever seen. But at the same time, one of the cutest and most endearing kids I know. He’s definitely the center of his family’s attention, and not for without good reason.

I am writing this just after 10pm…and I must say, I’m quite sad, indeed. I will miss everything about this place…

…Except for the random Tajik diamond smugglers who have yet to leave the guest house. Fuck ‘em! =/